[67StingrayJ]

The belt is the first place you look when you have a belt powered machine. In a Viking they last A LONG ASS TIME compared to Can Ams, or RZRs because the belt is always engaged. It's the magic of the centrifugal clutch that engages the drivetrain into the primary pulley of the CVT.

What I want to know is what was the Dealership's Mechanic smoking when they said that the 'Viking sensed the over load and went into a protection mode to keep from damaging the drive train'. I'm very suspicious. I have done a complete rebuild on my CovidZombieKiller and never came across such an 'overload sensor'. Nor have I read anything in the owners manual about 'protection mode'. is there such a thing on the Vikings? Seriously?

 

[Hossfarran]

Hey, I took it apart. The belt was destroyed in pieces. The clutch shear has some lines to it. Not sure if I need to reach it as well of that's considered worn. It's smooth to the touch just has some black lines to where the belt rubbed against it.

 

[Sport4x4]

You should be able to clean those up and be fine.

 

[67StingrayJ]

when you get a new belt, buy a quality one. They'll set you back $40-$50 more than the competitors, but they're worth it. You have been down there now taking off all those panels, and covers, and cages. Do you really want to do it all over again?

Buy a good belt. And break cleaner will clean what Primary up real nice.

 

[Sport4x4]

I think the Yamaha OEM belt is about as good as they get. Makes me wonder if you have something else going on with your CVT, other than the fact it was 1000 miles over due for maintenance. But then again maybe that’s why

 

[buckg2]

Make sure to use low range when working your Viking really hard.

 

[cactus]

As above always use low, and I agree with Stingray about the dealer smoking some serious shit. The Viking sensed the overload and went into protection mode LOL

 

[Shakes2582]

The belt is the first place you look when you have a belt powered machine. In a Viking they last A LONG ASS TIME compared to Can Ams, or RZRs because the belt is always engaged. It's the magic of the centrifugal clutch that engages the drivetrain into the primary pulley of the CVT.

What I want to know is what was the Dealership's Mechanic smoking when they said that the 'Viking sensed the over load and went into a protection mode to keep from damaging the drive train'. I'm very suspicious. I have done a complete rebuild on my CovidZombieKiller and never came across such an 'overload sensor'. Nor have I read anything in the owners manual about 'protection mode'. is there such a thing on the Vikings? Seriously?

This is exactly what I was thinking. Overload? Protection Mode? Lol it’s a Yamaha, not a Tesla. Belt, belt, belt, belt and when looking at the belt clean up your clutches


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[67StingrayJ]

Also, never ever EVER drive the machine without the support cage installed. It will wear out the clutch in a hurry. It's crude, but the below sketch illustrates why you need it. Essentially, the cage isn't just a cage, it supports the clutch shaft.

 

[PooShivers]

Also, these belts aren't supposed to die. Take a really good look at the primary. Make sure your weights aren't flat-spotted when changing out the Ultramatic grease. Inspect the fixed (inner) sheave for wear, and changes to the angle of the face should be addressed by replacing the part. They're cheap and really easy to change when you've got the primary apart to change the belt.

Took me 3 replacement belts to figure that one out.

 

[67StingrayJ]

I know all to well about flat spots on the weights.

I was using the wrong grease. Notice the subtle differences in lube types? yeah, me either. Especially when they're all hiding in your shop somewhere. you MUST use Ultramatic Grease!