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Anyone on here run these? What are your thoughts and how well do they hold up?
 

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I have the 1.5" forward A-arms. They A-arms themselves are nice and they hold up well, but the bushings they send with them don't hold up worth a darn. I had 2 rides on a set of bushings and they pinched/deformed so bad that I couldn't drive the Viking without replacing them. I could literally grab the front wheels and shake the wheels about 1/8 - 3/16" inch in and out at the top of the wheel.

In my opinion, SuperATV customer service sucks. I told them about the problem and all they had to say was "you'll have to pay $80 for new bushings as they are a wear and tear item". Let me be clear. That's $80 for HALF a set of bushings. All my bushings were deformed and needed to be replaced, not just half. And these things are literally just plastic. You need 2 sets to switch them out so your looking at $160.

Look closely on the 1.5" forward A-Arm notes on their website (pic below taken moments ago). It explicitly mentions ball Joints, and Tie rods, but not bushings. When I talked to Kristen Smith about the cheap bushings they sent me, all they could say is "yeah, but the website doesn't say bushings 'are' covered by the warranty." Finally, they agreed to send me a set of bushings to replace the ones I was only able to get 2 rides out of and when I opened the package, there was only enough to do one side of the Viking! I was pissed. After all the discussions we had and how all the bushings failed, and how they said I had to take the old bushings off and send photos before they would send me new bushings, they only sent me enough to do one side. So my Viking was up on jack stands for an additional week taking up space in the shop. Some people are just plane dumb.

Are the A-arms good quality? Yes. Can I recommend paying the extra money for something that is going to cost you $160 for 16 pieces of plastic after a few rides? No, I cannot recommend them. Maybe if SuperATV wasn't into charging such outlandish prices for a replacement set of bushings I could recommend them. Your going to be replacing a lot more than just the A-arms on your Viking if you don't stay on top of their bushings.

Also, they say you can clear a 30" tire with no rubbing but I have 28" tires and my tires still rub. Others claim they get now rub, but they have the 2in lift kits installed, which really just limit the top 2" of suspension travel in your suspension. There are lots of discussions on here about these lift kits. All I can say is do you homework before you buy.

51241
 

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I have the 1.5" forward A-arms. They A-arms themselves are nice and they hold up well, but the bushings they send with them don't hold up worth a darn. I had 2 rides on a set of bushings and they pinched/deformed so bad that I couldn't drive the Viking without replacing them. I could literally grab the front wheels and shake the wheels about 1/8 - 3/16" inch in and out at the top of the wheel.
I went to bat for you the last time you brought this up. I reported everything to quality, and we searched all the A-arm orders, all the online references and each email and phone call for complaints. We only had 3 hits, and 2 were from you, and we haven't been able to replicate the issue on any of our machines. They're all going strong.
 

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I still would not recommend them for the fact that you charge $80 for half a set of bushings alone. That's insane. I have a trip to Utah coming up where I'll be taking the Viking out to all the parks in the south-west corner. I haven't driven the Viking sense I put the new bushings on. We'll see how well they hold up. Like I said, the A-Arms hold up well, but not the plastic bushings y'all send with them.
 

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I wonder if those bushings could be reproduced with a 3-D printer. No way I’m paying $160 for plastic bushings.
 

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Is it possible to use the Yamaha stock bushings with these A arms?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry guy didn’t mean to stir up anything I’m new here the reason I was asking is because I am wanting to run 28s and don’t want a lift sorry again
 

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It also has a lot to do with the back space of the wheels. Go with 5+2 the whole way around. Or 5+2 in the and 4+3 in the rear. That gives you perfect tracking. Avoid 4+3 in the front, that is usually the issue with front tires rubbing the inner fender.
 

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I went to bat for you the last time you brought this up. I reported everything to quality, and we searched all the A-arm orders, all the online references and each email and phone call for complaints. We only had 3 hits, and 2 were from you, and we haven't been able to replicate the issue on any of our machines. They're all going strong.
Mine did the same thing. Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Sorry guy didn’t mean to stir up anything I’m new here the reason I was asking is because I am wanting to run 28s and don’t want a lift sorry again
No need to apologize. You asked and i gave an honest recount of my experience. I have 814 shocks and they are way better than the stock stuff. Don't be fooled in regards to those lift kits where they just take 2" out of your suspension travel. I'm running 28" wheels with the 1.5 forward A-Arms and I still rub. Others say they are running 30's with no rub, but they have that 2" suspension limiting lift kit that I'm suggesting you avoid.

Welcome to the forum.
 

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I wonder if those bushings could be reproduced with a 3-D printer. No way I’m paying $160 for plastic bushings.
I don't think 3DPrinting would work. Not so much that they wouldn't fit, but they wouldn't hold up. You need a really strong material. A high durometer rubber is what is typically used. Plastics deform under heat and pressure.



Is it possible to use the Yamaha stock bushings with these A arms?
That's a good question. The ID would have to be the same. This is the $15 OEM bushing.
51244

This is the $79.99 plastic crap SuperATV sends.
51245
 

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They are UHMW bushings. Its the best bushing material on the market. I'm guessing other manufacturers are probably getting the same material from the same place. Its very possible that we received a crap batch of UHMW material back then. That's never really been brought up before. That's something I could possibly track down and look into. Haven't had any problems or questions in a long time.
 

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They are UHMW bushings. Its the best bushing material on the market. I'm guessing other manufacturers are probably getting the same material from the same place. Its very possible that we received a crap batch of UHMW material back then. That's never really been brought up before. That's something I could possibly track down and look into. Haven't had any problems or questions in a long time.
When I emailed about this months ago I suggested perhaps I received a faulty batch. All I got out of SuperATV was Bushings arn't covered under the warranty, or it's been longer than 3 months.

It would be nice if you could verify the OEM bushings would work on the 1.5" forward A-Arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
When I emailed about this months ago I suggested perhaps I received a faulty batch. All I got out of SuperATV was Bushings arn't covered under the warranty, or it's been longer than 3 months.

It would be nice if you could verify the OEM bushings would work on the 1.5" forward A-Arms.
 

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It also has a lot to do with the back space of the wheels. Go with 5+2 the whole way around. Or 5+2 in the and 4+3 in the rear. That gives you perfect tracking. Avoid 4+3 in the front, that is usually the issue with front tires rubbing the inner fender.
^^^^ I’ve seen this and it works.
 

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I wonder if those bushings could be reproduced with a 3-D printer. No way I’m paying $160 for plastic bushings.
No but if you know someone with a lathe you can buy a blank cylinder of nolathane and turn up your own, that's what we do.
 
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