I spent some time reading a bunch of threads about hooking up accessories and thought I'd share what I did, as I think it's pretty simple. I might've spent a bit more on pre-wired or duplicative products, but at the end of the day it was still pretty inexpensive. Sharing links to each product in case it helps someone else.
Here's the end result:
![Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Steering part Automotive design]()
The basic setup hinges on the WARN VRX 35-S winch witch I ordered with the Viking when I got it. I did not get it preinstalled, however. Installing it myself was an educational experience and helped when I was thinking through how to deal with what follows.
Once the winch was installed, I had a port for the remote (which worked great when I needed to get unstuck in my backyard mud swamp) and a loose wire (with red/black/green ends) for the rocker switch (tucked well up in the wheel well temporarily, so it did not get covered in mud during the aforementioned use).
Rather than using the rocker switch that came with the winch, here's where I started to go off script.
First, I got a simple switch panel with preinstalled/prewired switches:
Amazon.com ($24.99)
Then, I got a different rocker switch for the winch:
Amazon.com ($11.99)
For kicks, I also got a voltmeter with 2x USB charger:
Amazon.com ($14.98)
Then, to simplify the wiring process in exchange for a few extra $ spent, I got one of those things that connects to the cable behind the accessory port in the dash:
For Yamaha 5KM-86171-00-00 Plug&Play WIRE LEAD 1 Grizzly 700 Wolverine Viking | eBay ($17.99)
Again with the prerequisite that I had already installed the winch per factory instructions, and the only incomplete task on the winch installation was connecting it to a rocker switch, I got to work with my < $100 in other stuff:
1. I popped out 2 of the switches on the switch panel and put the winch rocker and voltmeter in in their place.
2. This meant having to rewire things slightly:
![Musical instrument Automotive tire Electrical wiring Audio equipment Engineering]()
3. I removed the safety label and cut a hole in the dash (cringe).
![Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Trunk Automotive design]()
4. I wired the switch panel to the ebay wire lead thing that's made for the Viking (I only knew this was a thing by installing the winch myself, because the winch is connected via the same mechanism -- so, now I have 2 of these things that go between the accessory port and the battery).
5. I connected the wires from the winch, which were supposed to go to the rocker switch that came with the winch, to my light-up winch switch instead. So the winch rocker switch has the 3 wires from the winch (to power the winch), and 1 more wire from the daisy-chained switches in the switch panel (this just makes the lights on the switch work).
In planning this I realized the size of the panel didn't really work with the place I wanted to put it, so I also got this cupholder:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HN7GP3R?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details ($20.99)
The added benefit with this is it'll hold normal-sized cups, unlike all the other cupholders on the Viking (eye roll). A couple of 1" spacers from the hardware store (< $1) were needed for the top 2 mounting holes so that the cup holder would be level since that panel is on an angle.
I also got a thing to hold my phone, which mounts nicely to the grab bar:
Amazon.com ($23.99)
Finally, when I took the warning sticker off the dashboard it revealed 4 holes in the plastic -- one on each corner. While I was at the hardware store I got some automotive push fasteners (second to smallest size they had) which plugged into the holes perfectly.
So there you have it. Right now the middle two switches are decorative, so I have room to expand. Everything works, and nothing is catching fire, so I think it's all wired correctly. (Functioning and not on fire is my general success criterion for electrical work.) I don't really know much about relays but figure I'll cross that bridge later -- the winch install included a relay for that:
![Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle]()
And I assume one isn't needed for the minimal draw for the voltmeter and lights on the switches.
Questions welcome, as are any suggestions if it looks like I did something incorrectly here!
Thanks.
Here's the end result:
The basic setup hinges on the WARN VRX 35-S winch witch I ordered with the Viking when I got it. I did not get it preinstalled, however. Installing it myself was an educational experience and helped when I was thinking through how to deal with what follows.
Once the winch was installed, I had a port for the remote (which worked great when I needed to get unstuck in my backyard mud swamp) and a loose wire (with red/black/green ends) for the rocker switch (tucked well up in the wheel well temporarily, so it did not get covered in mud during the aforementioned use).
Rather than using the rocker switch that came with the winch, here's where I started to go off script.
First, I got a simple switch panel with preinstalled/prewired switches:
Amazon.com ($24.99)
Then, I got a different rocker switch for the winch:
Amazon.com ($11.99)
For kicks, I also got a voltmeter with 2x USB charger:
Amazon.com ($14.98)
Then, to simplify the wiring process in exchange for a few extra $ spent, I got one of those things that connects to the cable behind the accessory port in the dash:
For Yamaha 5KM-86171-00-00 Plug&Play WIRE LEAD 1 Grizzly 700 Wolverine Viking | eBay ($17.99)
Again with the prerequisite that I had already installed the winch per factory instructions, and the only incomplete task on the winch installation was connecting it to a rocker switch, I got to work with my < $100 in other stuff:
1. I popped out 2 of the switches on the switch panel and put the winch rocker and voltmeter in in their place.
2. This meant having to rewire things slightly:
3. I removed the safety label and cut a hole in the dash (cringe).
4. I wired the switch panel to the ebay wire lead thing that's made for the Viking (I only knew this was a thing by installing the winch myself, because the winch is connected via the same mechanism -- so, now I have 2 of these things that go between the accessory port and the battery).
5. I connected the wires from the winch, which were supposed to go to the rocker switch that came with the winch, to my light-up winch switch instead. So the winch rocker switch has the 3 wires from the winch (to power the winch), and 1 more wire from the daisy-chained switches in the switch panel (this just makes the lights on the switch work).
In planning this I realized the size of the panel didn't really work with the place I wanted to put it, so I also got this cupholder:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HN7GP3R?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details ($20.99)
The added benefit with this is it'll hold normal-sized cups, unlike all the other cupholders on the Viking (eye roll). A couple of 1" spacers from the hardware store (< $1) were needed for the top 2 mounting holes so that the cup holder would be level since that panel is on an angle.
I also got a thing to hold my phone, which mounts nicely to the grab bar:
Amazon.com ($23.99)
Finally, when I took the warning sticker off the dashboard it revealed 4 holes in the plastic -- one on each corner. While I was at the hardware store I got some automotive push fasteners (second to smallest size they had) which plugged into the holes perfectly.
So there you have it. Right now the middle two switches are decorative, so I have room to expand. Everything works, and nothing is catching fire, so I think it's all wired correctly. (Functioning and not on fire is my general success criterion for electrical work.) I don't really know much about relays but figure I'll cross that bridge later -- the winch install included a relay for that:
And I assume one isn't needed for the minimal draw for the voltmeter and lights on the switches.
Questions welcome, as are any suggestions if it looks like I did something incorrectly here!
Thanks.
