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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just finished a rear bumper made from 1 1/2" schedule 40 pipe. Attached to the frame using existing threaded holes. The attachment point was 1" x 3/16 flat stock. There are two threaded holes on the drivers side, one of them has a bolt which holds a portion of the heat shield above the muffler. I did add a third bolt giving it a better purchase to the frame.

1" round pipe, again schedule 40, then attaches to the bumper. The bumper is 59" wide which keeps it inside of the width of the Viking. 1/2" clearance when the tail gate is down.

It extends approximately 2" beyond the rear of the Viking to protect the back of the rig.

More to come....got to play catch up with you all.....ha
 

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nice lookin
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice Charger06.....looks liked we built very similar bumpers. Good work!
 

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Both look very similar. That also makes me think that it is not the hardest thing to create (which is a good thing). Have you ran into anything yet? Did the bumper do its job properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Both look very similar. That also makes me think that it is not the hardest thing to create (which is a good thing). Have you ran into anything yet? Did the bumper do its job properly?
Hawkman I haven't put it to the test on the trail but I believe it will perform as expected. The schedule 40 pipe in pretty tough and should handle the occasional bump into a tree or rock. The weak point is where it bolts to the frame. I don't believe that would take a hard hit without breaking or bending the plate attachment. Having said that, as long as the bumper handles sapling's and brush I will be happy.

BTW your correct it was an easy build. Total time 4 hours not including paint drying time. The front bumper took twice as long....several on and off fittings and way more angles and bending.
 

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Hawkman I haven't put it to the test on the trail but I believe it will perform as expected. The schedule 40 pipe in pretty tough and should handle the occasional bump into a tree or rock. The weak point is where it bolts to the frame. I don't believe that would take a hard hit without breaking or bending the plate attachment. Having said that, as long as the bumper handles sapling's and brush I will be happy.

BTW your correct it was an easy build. Total time 4 hours not including paint drying time. The front bumper took twice as long....several on and off fittings and way more angles and bending.
Cool. Sounds like it should hold up. You should come back and let us know once its been put to the test a bit. Do you think the front bumper took longer because its harder, or was it because it was your first try? On the rear bumper I'm sure you already had some practice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool. Sounds like it should hold up. You should come back and let us know once its been put to the test a bit. Do you think the front bumper took longer because its harder, or was it because it was your first try? On the rear bumper I'm sure you already had some practice.
The front is harder due to several bends, more cutting, welding and grinding. Plus the attachment points are at angles which have to be determined to transfer to the metal for a good fit. When your making a "one off" bumper each piece has to be fabricated with no templates to work with. The cool thing about making your own is you get to design it for you purpose and eye appeal. I made mine beefy to handle a steep nose in (hope that never happens) and pushing through brush and saplings while hunting.

I will give a review after a few trips on the trail....
 

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I had to copy yall. Got the bumper done and the over fenders installed today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had to copy yall. Got the bumper done and the over fenders installed today.
Nice to add goodies to the Viking. Looks good. Haven't had mine in any mud yet. Are the over fenders a must have to keep mud out of the inside?
 

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To be honest, they really dont help to keep the mud out. I got 6 foot of conveyor belt offline from McMaster Carr for $40. Im going to make the fenders hang out the sides about 2 inches and make them go all the way to the bottom of the door. I made my own fender flares for my 07 Rhino and they worked great.
 
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