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If u just got it then it will feel sluggish. Its breaking in trying to seat everything and you should run it easy for first 20hours. They really crank the rpms as it is now. I wouldn't want to change them much.

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yep, for sure let it brake in first. I dont find mine to be to sluggish. Its no hotrod like my CanAm, but its not bad either.
 

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break in

Does it really make a difference "breaking it in?" I thought that was just a myth. What is actually happening inside the Viking that makes it run differently after you have been driving it for ~20 hours?
Just like what was stated above. The break in period is for making sure things function as they should. Primarily you want the valves to seat properly for a longer life, as well as the cylinder and piston and rings wearing evenly. You want to change your oil and filter at the end of break in to remove any metal filings that may have shown up. Good luck and go easy on the throttle for a while, you'll be happy later if you do.
 

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The thing about break ins you do have to be careful about is babying too much. Yes take it easy dont be running full throttle but dont nanny it everywhere.

Actually if you nanny it, your Viking will probably show some problems later on in its life. Its best to get a fair evaluation during break in. If you nanny it the Viking never gets near its peak mechanical stress, then sometime down the line you try and hoon the Viking a bit and becasue its never seen those stress levels it taps out...

I've seen it with cars and lots of motorcycles that were babied by a first owner, then the second owner thinks they have a perfect unmolested vehicle to thrash themselves only to find out no bueno!
 

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The thing about break ins you do have to be careful about is babying too much. Yes take it easy dont be running full throttle but dont nanny it everywhere.

Actually if you nanny it, your Viking will probably show some problems later on in its life. Its best to get a fair evaluation during break in. If you nanny it the Viking never gets near its peak mechanical stress, then sometime down the line you try and hoon the Viking a bit and becasue its never seen those stress levels it taps out...

I've seen it with cars and lots of motorcycles that were babied by a first owner, then the second owner thinks they have a perfect unmolested vehicle to thrash themselves only to find out no bueno!
Very true, as i've always be taught, you need the engine to build up enough pressure to seat the piston rings in nicely and every other small working engine part.

I think normal riding with bursts of harder riding would be a nice mix
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, no doubt I am not going WOT all the time right now, just short bursts like everyone has said. We ride on the highway long distances to get from trail to trial here in WV. Hatfield McCoy trail system :) so far I have been trying not to get over 35-40mph, I am really after a faster MPH on the top end while WOT after my unit breaks in. Do you all think 55mph is possible?
 

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Well, no doubt I am not going WOT all the time right now, just short bursts like everyone has said. We ride on the highway long distances to get from trail to trial here in WV. Hatfield McCoy trail system :) so far I have been trying not to get over 35-40mph, I am really after a faster MPH on the top end while WOT after my unit breaks in. Do you all think 55mph is possible?
55mph should be achievable with an ignition no problem IMO but I wouldn't say it would do a lot more without bolt on parts. It hits 50-51mph relatively easy so 55mph should be no trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I haven't really pushed mine to the max yet, like I said earlier, while cruising on the highway it easily holds 30-35 without even trying to push the engine. I did a short power burst up to 45 then I let off but it pulled all the way through. Once my unit is broke in I want a speed Limiter bypass.
 
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