your logic is sound... One must not be a reactionary or overly negative to a resolvable issue... have patience forkliftman..... no sense in changing brands over an unproven issue?
I suggest a 1/4 inch steel base/ceramic coated heat shield - remove the rear diff driver side bracket, trim the top gusset off, re-weld the same 1/4 running gusset below the top plate ( all can be done while in a vise when bracket is removed) powder coat and re-install with vertical heat-treated fasteners in existing holes......
The metal 1/4 inch plate when coated (ceramic - by jet hot coatings) will dissipate 1300 degrees - more than adequate to maintain a "normal, yet still warm well-worked rear cluster.
Polaris? they're down and to the left on the keyboard
I don't think the ECU has a way of seeing the exhaust temp, there is no sensor in the exhaust side of the head that I can see. Tons of folks are running exhaust wrap on their header pipes and have been for years with no ill affect on the motors. That would be the easiest way to insulate the pipe from anything around it.being as dumb as I am in matters of the ECU, I'd sure like to know for sure if the ECU auto-adjusts for any difference in hot gas flow if one were to just wrap the dang pipe!
That really is the simple way to go... Hate to have white valves after a long and hot run... specially here in toasty Arizona