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If you ride in the water a lot. The exhaust wrap will hold moisture, and prematurely rot out your pipe.
I doubt that should be much of an issue, that pipe gets so hot, if it did get wet, by the time you got home, it would be dry.
 

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Exactly I have been running wrap forever and mine lives in water....has been perfect on my brute and honda.....it drys so fast anyways while riding
 

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Haven't had this problem yet but looks to me like a muffler shop could put a small bend in exhaust pipe where it comes out of engine to raise the pipe somewhat. I'm going to make a ss shield first and wrap pipe to see if that helps before I have a problem also.
 

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UltraTec,

your logic is sound... One must not be a reactionary or overly negative to a resolvable issue... have patience forkliftman..... no sense in changing brands over an unproven issue?

I suggest a 1/4 inch steel base/ceramic coated heat shield - remove the rear diff driver side bracket, trim the top gusset off, re-weld the same 1/4 running gusset below the top plate ( all can be done while in a vise when bracket is removed) powder coat and re-install with vertical heat-treated fasteners in existing holes......

The metal 1/4 inch plate when coated (ceramic - by jet hot coatings) will dissipate 1300 degrees - more than adequate to maintain a "normal, yet still warm well-worked rear cluster.

Polaris? they're down and to the left on the keyboard
 

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Polaris? I really Dislike Polaris..
 

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UltraTec,

your logic is sound... One must not be a reactionary or overly negative to a resolvable issue... have patience forkliftman..... no sense in changing brands over an unproven issue?

I suggest a 1/4 inch steel base/ceramic coated heat shield - remove the rear diff driver side bracket, trim the top gusset off, re-weld the same 1/4 running gusset below the top plate ( all can be done while in a vise when bracket is removed) powder coat and re-install with vertical heat-treated fasteners in existing holes......

The metal 1/4 inch plate when coated (ceramic - by jet hot coatings) will dissipate 1300 degrees - more than adequate to maintain a "normal, yet still warm well-worked rear cluster.

Polaris? they're down and to the left on the keyboard

I don't get the down and to the left on the keyboard lol.. please explain
 

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Jet hot gets about 75$ for a 10" x 12" coating over a steel plate which would dissipate any heat coming from the exhaust pipe...cherry red or any other color... That plate fabbed by our member is very slick! any worries, just get it coated (only adds less than an 1/8th of an inch in thickness) and bolt er' on....

Funny how the factory twists the edge of the drivers side rear diff mount upwards...
 

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being as dumb as I am in matters of the ECU, I'd sure like to know for sure if the ECU auto-adjusts for any difference in hot gas flow if one were to just wrap the dang pipe!

That really is the simple way to go... Hate to have white valves after a long and hot run... specially here in toasty Arizona
 

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IMG_9627.webp
 

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50696
 

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being as dumb as I am in matters of the ECU, I'd sure like to know for sure if the ECU auto-adjusts for any difference in hot gas flow if one were to just wrap the dang pipe!

That really is the simple way to go... Hate to have white valves after a long and hot run... specially here in toasty Arizona
I don't think the ECU has a way of seeing the exhaust temp, there is no sensor in the exhaust side of the head that I can see. Tons of folks are running exhaust wrap on their header pipes and have been for years with no ill affect on the motors. That would be the easiest way to insulate the pipe from anything around it.
 
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