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Monkey's Summit Racing Heater Install

65254 Views 252 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  applianceschoices
UPS came early today! I am expecting the rest of my parts on Friday.

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I could be completely wrong but I thought our Summit heaters were 28000 btu's and the Firestorm were only 22000. I'm not sure what 6000 btu's are worth but maybe that's more of a reason than anything. I didn't take the time to look it up so I may be waaayyy off base but...maybe???
I am sure that makes a difference but in the end I'd bet that most of it is due to cold air leaking into the cab. I am sealed up well enough to tell that I am getting a small amount of leakage through the windshield vents even though they are closed. If a cab is really well sealed up, even a small heater would have a big impact.
yeah, I just edited my post. I agree with you, block the leaks and see where you're at.
I know this has been mentioned before but, for those of you that have heaters of ANY kind, make sure you have checked the "Y" connectors. They are really just "T" connectors with the 5/8" tube welded onto them at an angle. When you look inside them you just might find that it's a round, instead of oval, hole between the two. By running a 1/2" drill bit down the 5"8 side you can really increase the hot water flow to your heater core..
I made sure I did this, Thanks for the suggestion.
2
I went for a 6 mile ride last night, it was 27 deg and there was a slight westerly wind, I'd say I ran between 25 and 35 most of the way. the first picture is when I backed the Viking out of the garage after letting it warm up and the second picture is when got back from the ride. I had on sweat pants and a sweatshirt, I was chilly by the time I got back but if I'd had gloves on it wouldn't have been to bad. there id deffinately more air getting thru the E brake and the shift lever than I had noticed before and about knee high there's a pretty cool breeze coming in. since the wind wasn't blowing very hard I didn't notice any cold air coming in the gap at the top front of my door or the door hinges.
backing out of the garage

when I got back
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I went for a 6 mile ride last night, it was 27 deg and there was a slight westerly wind, I'd say I ran between 25 and 35 most of the way. the first picture is when I backed the Viking out of the garage after letting it warm up and the second picture is when got back from the ride. I had on sweat pants and a sweatshirt, I was chilly by the time I got back but if I'd had gloves on it wouldn't have been to bad. there id deffinately more air getting thru the E brake and the shift lever than I had noticed before and about knee high there's a pretty cool breeze coming in. since the wind wasn't blowing very hard I didn't notice any cold air coming in the gap at the top front of my door or the door hinges.
backing out of the garage

when I got back
Yup this is as expected. Moving slowly (plowing) or in idle it can get quite toasty inside. Moving at speed will both improve the radiator's cooling ability and force cold air into the cab. I'd say you don't need to actually seal up the e-brake and shifter so much as screw some kind of air deflector in front of it.

I am getting my plastic push fasteners today, along with my relay for wiring the backup camera and proximity sensors. There are a couple of spots on both sides where IKEEPITCOLD'S idea of using the push fasteners makes a lot of sense. I might also pickup some kind of magnets for sealing the enclosure to the doors where the push fasteners would cause a problem.
the deflector is a good idea, I'd been trying to think of something that would have enough give to work around those two places. deflecting it would be much easier. I will look up under there tonight and see what I can come up with. I do have a few neoprene strips about 5" wide, maybe I can fab something out of them otherwise
the deflector is a good idea, I'd been trying to think of something that would have enough give to work around those two places. deflecting it would be much easier. I will look up under there tonight and see what I can come up with. I do have a few neoprene strips about 5" wide, maybe I can fab something out of them otherwise
I have some foam insulation I plan on using to try and cover those areas with from the outside. Just haven't had the time to do it yet.
Just tape a plastic bag over the whole assembly under the fender till spring.

Sent from the top of Poop Mountain
Just tape a plastic bag over the whole assembly under the fender till spring.

Sent from the top of Poop Mountain
That would be a quick fix
Bringing this forward for jvt to see.

Sent from the bottom of a whiskey bottle
the deflector is a good idea, I'd been trying to think of something that would have enough give to work around those two places. deflecting it would be much easier. I will look up under there tonight and see what I can come up with. I do have a few neoprene strips about 5" wide, maybe I can fab something out of them otherwise
The wife and I cut up some oversized foam sponges with a slit in them so the controls could keep working, and stuffed them up there from underneath, pretty much stopped all the cold air from blowing in from the e-brake and shifter

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me and the wife went for a ride Sat evening, it was 40 and there was a slight wind, we had on tennis shoes, jeans and sweatshirts. it was plenty warm while the wind wasn't blowing to hard but we stopped at a friends to check out a new house they're building and while we were there it started to get dark so the temps dropped (34 by the time we got home) and the wind really started to blow. the ride home was chilly but bearable once the Viking got back up to temp. the doors around the hinges let in a lot of air when you have a significant cross wind and I still have the gap (about the size of your fist) at the top of my doors near the front of the windshield that lets air in when you have the crosswind. I'm going to try to sew or velcro a piece in the gap but I don't have a good idea for the doors. The weatherstripping I put along the bottom of the factory windshield made a really big difference so if I can get the other gaps stopped I should be able to stay plenty warm. I don't feel my cab was as warm as BM's but then again I was cruising anywhere from 20 to 35 mph. blog but I'd guess if I was doing work like he's doing I'd have around the same temp. you have to be loosing a ton of heat from the gap at the top of the winshield, blog that would be the first thing to close off then blog it's just a game of going for a spin and seeing where you feel air and coming up with a plan to close it off. I did put some insulated foam around the heater blog hoses where they go into my weather enclosure blog for the heater and also blog put spray foam to cut down on the direct cold air intake and it seemed to help. blog basically it draws air from behind the battery now, blog I know it's still cold air but it's not being forced thru the fan like it was before. I also have anywhere from 1/3 to 2/3 of the radiator blocked depending on the outside temp. fiido d2s tire
I know this has been mentioned before but, for those of you that have heaters of ANY kind, make sure you have checked the "Y" connectors. They are really just "T" connectors with the 5/8" tube welded onto them at an angle. When you look inside them you just might find that it's a round, instead of oval, hole between the two. By running a 1/2" drill bit down the 5"8 side you can really increase the hot water flow to your heater core..
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