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I would say, and most would agree, that the number one complaint about the Viking is the amount of noise you hear in the cab. I have tried a few things, and all have worked to varying degrees. However, I just finished my soundproofing project, and I am MORE than pleased with the results.
I took my Viking to a local shop, that specializes in soundproofing, and challenged them to come up with a solution. We tried several products that seemed promising...so I took a bunch of it home and gave it a shot. What I can tell you is this...Between the Hushpower muffler and the installed soundproof material, I now have the quietest Viking out there. I can have a normal conversation with the person next to me and have to raise my voice just a bit to talk to the person in the far seat. I can honestly say that noise is no longer an issue for me! I'm not saying it's a golf cart quiet...but it is no louder than anything else I tried....and quieter than some.

Here's the info: I used 3 materials
#1. 3 LF of 1" SSP foam mat (SSP = Super Sound Proof)
#2. 2 LF of 2" SSP
#3. 3 LF of 1/8" MLV and 1/4" SSP bonded (MLV = Mass Loaded Vinyl)
Plus 1 can of spray on contact cement

This stuff is a closed cell foam that is water proof - mold, mildew, gas and oil resistant.

I removed the seats and covered all of the plastic from where your heals touch on up to the front of the seats. I did this on the back side (inside) so it was not visible. Then I cut individual pieces and covered all of the plastic (on top the outside) under the seats. You need to take your time with this as there are many different shapes and stuff. This was all done with the MLV SSP and contact cement. Then I pulled the side panels off and used a large piece of the 2" SSP and ran it front to back along the inside square frame from under the drivers seat and used the same stuff around the outside seat belt holes and gas tank. Then I put the seats back in and used the 1" SSP to fill every void in between the seat frames and over the tool storage area...and used 2" SSP over the top of the air cleaner box. Don't forget the holes where the seat belts come through as well. Next I used a piece of the 1" SSP that fit perfect on the front of the bed. I left the pipe insulation and bed mat from my earlier sound project. Next, I used some pieces of the 2" SSP that filled the gap between the back of the seats and the pipe insulation.
When I started it up, I was amazed at the difference...I mean it's HUGE! One thing I also learned is that, after doing all this, I found that there was a howl coming from the air intake under the hood. I threw a piece of the MLV over that as well. In short, all I did was put a sound barrier between the cab and the engine...and the difference truly is night and day!

The sound proofing materials will run you approx. $175 plush shipping. The name of the company is "Super Soundproofing" just ask for Randy...he really knows his stuff! (888-942-7723)
Best Soundproofing Materials, Noise Control Materials and Solutions by soundproofing.org

I would HIGHLY recommend the Hushpower silencer along with the SSP material. In my opinion, if Yamaha would have done this from the beginning the sound problem would hardly be an issue! It really is that big of a difference!

Here are the install photo's...

MLV over the seats
DSCN0376.JPG DSCN0378.JPG

1"SSP in all the voids around the seat frames and 2" over the air box
DSCN0392.JPG

2" SSP along the interior frame
DSCN0381.JPG

1" SSP on front of bed w/pipe insulation on latch rod
DSCN0391.JPG

With seats installed material is not that noticable
DSCN0394.JPG

Behind seats w/2" SSP to fill gap between seats and bed
DSCN0389.JPG DSCN0383.JPG

Here are the materials
DSCN0385.JPG

What I learned most of all was that it makes a huge difference if you use materials that were specifically designed to reduce noise and sound transfer. This stuff REALLY works! Here's a link to the video... http://www.vikingforum.org/forum/yamaha-viking-how-diy-section/4746-quiet-viking-video.html
 

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Great job, i personally cant wait to see some Videos of it driving by, etc.
 

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Very nice, was starting on this last weekend, just don't have the 2" stuff

Joe
 

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Mass,

Are you losing any storage under the seats (driver)?...not that reduced noise levels is a bad compromise. Just wondering?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys...this is hands down the best money I have spent on it. To put it in perspective, the windshield cost me twice as much...and I got MUCH more out of this! I mean this is one of the cheapest things I've done to the dang thing :eek:

Fhb...the only space I lost under the seat would be the 2" thickness of the foam that runs (on edge) right along the inside frame rail from where your right heel is to the plastic right in front of the rear tire. There is still a ton of room under there.

One thing I didn't mention in my first post is how important that piece is on the front of the bed. That area behind the seats is where most of the noise is coming from.
 

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that is awesome. thanks for sharing

you should have got a noise meter! measured the before and after

that would have given some nice raw data to the modification
 

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I was going to say the same thing. Where is the data? :)


But it can still be done. We need someone that has a bone stock Viking. The db meter should be placed inside the cab at ..say...head level and take a reading at idle, 5mph, 10mph, 20 mph, 30mph on the same type of riding surface, etc. As long as the readings are taken consistently the data should be a fairly good measure of reduction of interior db levels. The same readings with the same variables can be taken on his modified Viking. It would be best to use the same db meter but that most likely won't happen unless he has a buddy with an unmodified Viking local to him.

I personally am more interested in the interior noise than the exterior noise.

Joe



that is awesome. thanks for sharing

you should have got a noise meter! measured the before and after

that would have given some nice raw data to the modification
 

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Discussion Starter #9
that is awesome. thanks for sharing

you should have got a noise meter! measured the before and after

that would have given some nice raw data to the modification


I thought about a db meter, but I already had the muffler on and the mat behind the seats. I didn't want to pull that off and start from scratch. Sorry about that. All I can tell you is that it is WAAAAAAY quieter now and, for $175, it's the best investment I have made. Even if you did it and still wanted it quieter...it still will be much quieter than before. The only raw data I have is my ears....and my ears say this really made a BIG difference.
I don't know how much came from the muffler, and how much came from the sound proofing? I think most came from the sound proofing...but at lower RPM and idle the exhaust noise is negligible. You saw in the video what it sounded like next to that generator.
Again, anyone can get an idea ,as to how much you can quiet the cab down, by doing the towel thing. Shove a bunch of towels between the back of the seats and the front of the bed (fill that space up). Also fill all the gaps (seat belt holes) in and around the seats. You WILL notice a big difference!

BTW...did you know the Viking was already running in the video? :D
 

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Did you custom fab the Flowmaster Hushpower Silencer to fit or is it available as an off the shelf item from the manufacturer? Any information that you have would be greatly appreciated...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did you custom fab the Flowmaster Hushpower Silencer to fit or is it available as an off the shelf item from the manufacturer? Any information that you have would be greatly appreciated...
They no longer make the Hushpower muffler so you need to pick one up and have it modified. FYI: All of the original mufflers were the same internally...the attachment and inlet points were the only differences. There is a guy on E-bay selling them...I used model #7100 Flowmaster 7100 02 05 Arctic Cat 400 500 ATV After Muffler Silencer BLOWOUT Sale | eBay

BTW: I took mine to a local muffler shop and it was a very easy mod and install. Copy the photos I have posted and take them with you...it's a no brainer for them.

PS: For the rest of you, we originally purchased the mufflers for $89 and he must have sold a bunch because he raised the price to $105. However, he has lowered the price back down to $89 w/free shipping. He is showing 9 left...but the model #7300 looks like it will work as well? All you need is one that has the exhaust inlet side on the drivers side...it can be modified from there.
 

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Read all of this + replies and watched video. Good job. I also got on the website for the soundproofing and am working on an order. Does the MLV you bought have foam backing? If so did you put the foam side down as I don't see the foam part where you went under the seats(looks smooth). Do you think the MLV would work to cover the inside of the top? I heard somewhere that alot of the noise is caused by engine noise bouncing off top. Don't really know but thought I'd give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes the MLV has foam on one side...and that side goes down. I used spray on contact cement, and the directions were to spray both surfaces and wait just a bit until it got tacky, then apply. Just be careful to line it up good, it really sticks! The roof is a good question....you might want to run that by Randy, but I think most of what I used was more to block sound. On top of that...when you are done with the other, you will have blocked most of the engine noise anyways. I would do the cab first and see if you really think there is a need to go further. With the muffler and the soundproofing....mission accomplished, I'm done.

Let us know how it goes!
 

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Read all of this + replies and watched video. Good job. I also got on the website for the soundproofing and am working on an order. Does the MLV you bought have foam backing? If so did you put the foam side down as I don't see the foam part where you went under the seats(looks smooth). Do you think the MLV would work to cover the inside of the top? I heard somewhere that alot of the noise is caused by engine noise bouncing off top. Don't really know but thought I'd give it a try.
Try running with no roof before spending time and money of sound proofing the roof for no reason.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Since a Viking specific Hushpower isn't available, does anyone have any experience with this product? Looks like it does the same think, is specific to the Viking, and is a bolt on for the Viking.

ATV Silencer

I hate being a guinea pig, but I'll give them a call this week unless someone already has an answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Since a Viking specific Hushpower isn't available, does anyone have any experience with this product? Looks like it does the same think, is specific to the Viking, and is a bolt on for the Viking.

ATV Silencer

I hate being a guinea pig, but I'll give them a call this week unless someone already has an answer.
I'm not able to pull up the link, but if this is the "Silent Rider" formerly Benz muffler, I actually had one of these ordered and then cancelled it when I found the Hushpower muffler. The reviews on it are good, however I had some concerns. #1 This does not work with a OEM or EMP rear bumper without notching the brackets. #2. If you are going to be using your Viking at elevations, you need to be sure to tell them when you order. They will need to drill a hole in the last baffle. #3 This silencer uses packing and is NOT re-packable. I was told that it should last around 3 years...but some Folks get much more out of it. They are also a bit pricey.
 

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Talked with Randy today and placed an order. He is really a nice guy and very knowledgable. Gave me alot of information about sound, how it amplifies, and the places to use insulation that quiet it down and why and why not certain things work. More than I could absorb...at least in 1 phone call. He told me to ask you about the templates you were going to make so it would be easier for people like me that don't have access to Randy for help. C'mon cough em up! Just kidding, I can muddle my way through the install. Randy said the most important part was to take my time. The materials must be installed properly.
 
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