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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to owning a UTV and want to make sure I am doing the best thing for the machine.

I just bought a brand new Viking and was considering upgrading the tires because we ride in mud a lot. Considering going with something like a 27" mudlight both front and rear as they have served me well on all of my ATV's in the past.

Where the confusion comes in is regarding the Clutches.

I have been reading everything I can on the web and it seems currently there are 2 clutch options out there at the moment.

PSI seems to use a kit that changes the spring in the Driven, a new set of greaseless roller weights in the drive and a new set of springs for the wet clutch. Complicated, but not beyond my ability to install.

Hunterworks offers a setup that utilizes a machined sheave and greaseless roller weights with the option of replacing the driven clutch spring. Really simple and has the benefit of not opening up the engine to access the wet clutch.

I mentioned MUD right? I go to the mudholes here in Florida at least 2 weekends out of every month and this machine will be in the thick of it so I want to make sure I am treating the machine as well as possible to limit future breakdowns.

Currently I am leaning towards Hunterworks based on the ease of install, however I want to know if there is any real world benefit in going to the PSI kit and modding the wet clutch?

looking forward to hearing you guys opinions.......
 

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Dont know a thing about clutches, but just wanted to say welcome.
 

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Give Todd from Hunterworks a call and discuss it with him....He is a stand up guy and has a ton of experience with the Rhino clutching system. (on which the viking is developed from)
 

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I have gotten the impression it its two separate, but related issues.

The modified clutch set-up is to strengthen the clutch. The added torque from larger, heavier tires, especially on vehicles that will see more extreme use (in mud, rock climbing), can lead to premature clutch failure if the springs and weights aren't modified. The machined sheave does help with this, but, I think, is intended to help low and high speed performance changes, but on its own, won't necessarily prevent clutch failure under extreme use with larger tires. I also get the impression from what others have said that Yamaha views both the clutch and sheave as "wear items" and might not cover as a warranty repair if there are problems.

Just the conclusions I have come to. I will be interested to hear replies from others, especially Todd, on this issue. Seems to be approx. 7 to 8 hundred to do both modifications, but if I am wrong and doing only one would prevent premature clutch failure, it would be a 50% savings.
 

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I went with the complete kit from Hunterworks to run my Outlaws and haven't had any issues. With the mud and hills I put my Viking through an OEM setup would have given up by now. Guaranteed.


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I would probally get one too, I just that skilled to install something like that, and wouldn't know where take it to get something like that installed, other than a dealer.
 

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2k14 if you put your windshield on you can do the clutches lol....it is super easy and call me if you have any questions clutching is one of the best things to do to a machine
 

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I've been doing quite a bit of reading on it myself, I talked to Todd hunter works that is going to be my next mod

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2k14 if you put your windshield on you can do the clutches lol....it is super easy and call me if you have any questions clutching is one of the best things to do to a machine
May do that someday then, we acutally put on all of our accessories, so, i guess it ocould be done. Thanks Tonka.
 

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Yea there is nothing to it. You'd do it once and then wonder why you second guessed yourself. I installed my first kit in my rhino in about 2 hours. I did the Viking kit in about an hour or so. The biggest thing is to make sure everything is clean before install and the primary sheave gets installed all the way on the shaft before tightening he nut.
Watch Todd's videos on his site and it's a no brainier.


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Thanks ya'll, i'll check into it.
 

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As soon as I get over the last little " investment" I'm going with Hunter Works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the welcome!

I was actually hoping Todd would chime in on this issue as I have a feeling his insight would be most helpful. I understand the concept of the clutches and how the machined sheave would give the low end torque, what I am unfamiliar with is the need to change the springs on the wet clutch. PSI seems to be a stand up company so I doubt they added the springs just for the fun of it, I am simply wondering what the actual purpose of them is.

I am a golf cart mechanic by trade so I deal with clutches on a regular basis for the gas models, unfortunately (or maybe I should say fortunately)they don't have wet clutches so that is completely beyond my knowledge.

I definitely plan to do the greaseless roller weights and driven clutch spring from Todd (the nice part is that I already have the tool for changing the secondary clutch spring since it is the same for a gas golf), just want clarification if possible on the benefit of changing the springs in the wet clutch.
 

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The springs for the centrifugal wet clutch create an engagement and stall speed that are higher than stock. This allows the engine to rev a bit higher into the power band before things move. While it creates some nice low end snap when engaging, it is not so good for the life of the friction material on the wet clutch shoes. With 27" tires and plenty of mud, I would slug the wet clutch shoes, which does the exact opposite of the springs.
 

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