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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So anyone weld there front driveshaft yet. im sick of this slippage . was thinking of the other post about this issue and someone mentioned a shear pin but if it shears how you gonna line it back up to reinstall a new pin unless you machine it down to slide easier.
thinking of just welding it but don't really want to find out whats gonna be the weaklink after that
 

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I wouldn't weld it, if you're giving your Viking enough punishment for that shaft to slip if you weld it then something else is going to break, and THAT break will be worse. I see what you mean about lining up the shear pin hole on the trail though, it would be near impossible unless you turn down the shaft as you said. The other problem is finding a shear pin that has the same breaking force as the slip shaft.
 

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The thing about them slipping is it does not take much at all. The length of the shaft has some to do with it to I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ya that's what I don't want to find out what will become the weak point. don't really know what my options are this point but like vik212 said its sux. so many times ive been stuck could have pulled myself out but the front slipped. but might do it anyways just to see if I got to replace diff and axles so be it ... but theres that chance it might not do anything ....
 

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Once it slips once it will keep slipping. I think i"d still rather drill it and put a shear pin in it. I guess it depends on how far you are away from help too, I was hunting a 70 000 acre sheep property with just the one Viking with two of us in it, I'd hate for a CV to snap or a diff to blow in the middle of no where.
 

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I was the one that mentioned a shear pin....but I'm not sure it's good advice without some calculations. I think the best solution may be to replace the driveshaft and get Yamaha involved in this as much as possible...If they think the front diff can bear more load than perhaps they will beef up the slip coupler.

If mine ever starts to slip I will put it on a bench and check the amount of torque that it slips at and give us some baseline data to work with. If you go with a shear pin start small, 1/4 inch with a small groove cut in it to help it shear and work your way up.

Mark
 

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If ya weld it and something else breaks...then you will need to replace the driveshaft AND the other broken part. I just don't see this a design flaw...it seems to be doing exactly what it is supposed to do.

Having said that....It would be nice if we could see the exact moment this problem was occurring. Curious to see just how much torque it takes to get it to slip?
 

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Once it slips once it will keep slipping. I think i"d still rather drill it and put a shear pin in it. I guess it depends on how far you are away from help too, I was hunting a 70 000 acre sheep property with just the one Viking with two of us in it, I'd hate for a CV to snap or a diff to blow in the middle of no where.

This is a very good point! As it is now, if it slips, you still have the ability to drive it back to camp. Strengthen the drive shaft and put more pressure on the other parts....and you might be walkin'!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks everyone for input .... im the kind of guy that runs really hard im runnin 28x10 all the way around ... when the people stop for a hole im the guy that flies by and checks for everyone . but so many times ive been stuck and the front had full traction and could have pulled myself out but slippage:( . I will get new shaft but know that it will do it again that's what bothers me I know Yamaha wont do anything about it cuz its a safety feature
 

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You know what, I reckon that running four equal diameter wheels may just have something to do with this slipping issue. The Viking comes out with different diameter wheels front to back, I still can't see how you can change this without something giving.
 
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You know what, I reckon that running four equal diameter wheels may just have something to do with this slipping issue. The Viking comes out with different diameter wheels front to back, I still can't see how you can change this without something giving.

What diameter tires did yours come with? Mine were all 25's
 

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What diameter tires did yours come with? Mine were all 25's
Yeah mine too, I just thought that the fronts were taller than the back because of the different widths, I thought that the fronts were 3/4 of an inch or so taller, but I'll shut up until I go and measure properly!.
 

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thanks everyone for input .... im the kind of guy that runs really hard im runnin 28x10 all the way around ... when the people stop for a hole im the guy that flies by and checks for everyone . but so many times ive been stuck and the front had full traction and could have pulled myself out but slippage:( . I will get new shaft but know that it will do it again that's what bothers me I know Yamaha wont do anything about it cuz its a safety feature
I'm thinking water could be intruding into that slip joint and helping it slip...it seems that most of the guys having issues run alot of water and mud. Let us know if you see any water intrusion....that issue could be prevented with some good old silicon. But I agree with a statement made earlier...after it slips the first time it will start slipping more and more.
I have been looking at shear pin values and they are impressive....start out small.....an 1/8" cotter pin might just do it. It's all relative to the shaft diameter and applied torque plus the frictional resistance from the original design.
 

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I have been looking at shear pin values and they are impressive....start out small.....an 1/8" cotter pin might just do it. It's all relative to the shaft diameter and applied torque plus the frictional resistance from the original design.
Yes and as said you will need to turn down the inner shaft at the slip joint to remove any resistance still there and to also make it easier to line up the hole if the shear pin shears. I use a gal roofing nail as a shear pin for some farm equipment I have, it works perfectly in this situation. You will also need to carry a pin punch and hammer to get the shear pin out of the inner shaft once it has sheared.
 

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I run a lot of water no issues. Been stuck on stock tires with water up to the seats and had no issue but I'm in loose gravel under the water not much resistance.
 
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