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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted previously about a rod knocking in my ‘16 Viking and just now getting to fixing it.Engine is out and lm ready to go in. Im looking for some info to do this with least hassle as possible, will the magneto cover need to come off too when splitting the case open to change out the crank? I just dont want to open up anything that l dont have to..And yes l will be doing the middle gear fix whil lm in there.. The Viking currently only has about 700 miles and 60 hrs and that sucks to have to do this. Thanks for any info
 

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2020 Yamaha Viking EPS
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I have never tore one of these down, but before you split the cases you should find out if there is a way to check the rod connection at the crank without splitting the cases with the cylinder off to make sure that’s your problem. The other end connection at the piston will be easy with top end off. And maybe you will get lucky and find the problem is at the piston.
 

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As above is it big end or little end knock? At 700 miles the damage won't be from old age, so I'm guessing it ran out of oil and everything is damaged. I' haven't pulled a Viking motor apart but I'm certain that you'll have to pull the magneto cover off and the magneto to lift the crankcase half off and then remove the crank.
 

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Obviously this got low on oil. Have you owned this since new or buy used? That sure looks like there wasn’t enough oil in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I bought it used 3 yrs ago hasnt been low on oil since ive had it,lve probably put 10-15 hrs on it..i had just put in jbs sheeve and put 28s on it and it started knocking after about 5 miles
 

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You've changed the oil though?

A new piston, liner, big end and you'll be brand new. Get them to check the crank when they split it. And check the main bearings. Hopefully it was just the big end failing that scored the bore, not low oil at some point. That crank has been hot at some point, hopefully in the factory. It's got all the tempering colors right there, from straw all the way to blue and beyond!
 

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You've changed the oil though?

A new piston, liner, big end and you'll be brand new. Get them to check the crank when they split it. And check the main bearings. Hopefully it was just the big end failing that scored the bore, not low oil at some point. That crank has been hot at some point, hopefully in the factory. It's got all the tempering colors right there, from straw all the way to blue and beyond!
Yes l changed the oil not long after l bought it, ran it all through deer season then changed it again when l did all the clutch work. Oil looked good but after it started knocking i drained it again and noticed very fine metallic particles in it. I notice the discoloration on the crank but its not a concern, lm replacing it anyway with one of those Hot Rods kits. I was waiting to order it once l checked out the piston and cylinder. Just have to get the more expensive kit now
 

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That will be a nice motor when all done with the extra ponies.
Let us know if you can determine what cause the oil starvation to the cylinder.
Good luck!
 

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When my first engine died it was at 120hrs when the factory fan stopped working. Red light came on, Got hot. Went for another 20hrs till it started to knock. Maybe this might have been a similar scenario that made the previous owners sell. Before the knocking began. Cheers


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When my first engine died it was at 120hrs when the factory fan stopped working. Red light came on, Got hot. Went for another 20hrs till it started to knock. Maybe this might have been a similar scenario that made the previous owners sell. Before the knocking began. Cheers
Yeah good point, it's not necessarily always low oil that causes a big end to fail.
 

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Heres a better look at the discoloration on the big end
It's sure been hot, it must have been low on oil or starving for oil to get that hot, or maybe badly overheated. There's discoloration at the main bearings too, in the other photo, post number 4?
 
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