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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, guess what I got bored and done today? I gutted my muffler as I said I would in earlier posts. This all started when I started noticing how hot the exhaust and other parts around the exhaust was getting. I have multiple threads on this topic. Ok, so I completely removed the exhaust system, and started taking apart the muffler. I first started with removing the 4, 8mm bolts that holds the end cap on. If you look very carefully inside you see in the following order, a baffle with multiple holes cut in it, then behind that you can see what looks like a catalytic converter. So with this in mind, I cut one end of the muffler off and removed the first baffle. Well, to my surprise our mufflers has a 8 inch long, 2.5 inch around catalytic converter installed in it. Now, you all can draw your own conclusions but this is all facts from the automotive world.
1. Catalytic converters get extremely hot.
2. They do create 1-2lbs of back pressure
Also, what don't make sense to me, is the fact that the entire exhaust system is 1 inch inside diameter and the little tail pipe that bolts to the muffler is .25???? I didn't actually measure it but its considerably smaller.
So with all this said, I am going to do a Magnaflow style muffler, straight through with perforated pipe wrapped in steel wool and fiberglass packing.
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Sure wont hurt, good work there, look foward to your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just to be exact. The outside diameter of the inlet side of the muffler is 1.75", the tail pipe that you see on the end of the muffler that bolts on is 1" outside diameter. Giver or take a .10th or so lol. The muffler body itself is 5" around.
 

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camo2014 with all of the work you are doing on your exhaust any possibility of rerouting the pipes to avoid the diff?
thanks for researching this problem.
 

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GREAT INFO! Thanks for verifying this, the test reports from CARB list a converter, and I was curious if they actually have it.

There's probably a decent gain with an exhaust and fuel/ignition tuner.

The 10:1 forged piston is probably required to survive the lean burn.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, just ordered my supplies, thanks to summit racing again. 1.75 straight pipe, and 1.75 mandrel bent J pipe . Also ordered stainless steel wool, and muffler packing fiberglass. This will be a slow process of trail and error. Stay tuned for pics of before and after. I have all the tools to get the job done, exhaust pipe flaring tools, plasma cutter, torches, stick welder. I really wish I had a tig welder for this job
 

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Discussion Starter #9
camo2014 with all of the work you are doing on your exhaust any possibility of rerouting the pipes to avoid the diff?
thanks for researching this problem.
Yes, and I am making way with more bolt on power down the road. Power Commander V already on back order
 

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Wow, they used a metal foil converter.... suppose that makes sense, since it runs so hot. Don't forget to take the remnants to the scrap yard, there might be enough there to pay for your new parts.

One can get some really nice results with mig, are the tubes stainless?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, after a very long day of fab and mock up, the exhaust is almost finished. I went ahead and listened to it this evening to see where I was at with sound. It sounds very deep and raspy. Not exactly for someone who hunts but sporty sounding. I ended up gutting the factory muffler and running 1.75 inch pipe straight through, I perforated that pipe with holes I drilled into it. Then I wrapped that pipe with stainless steel wool, and exhaust repacking I purchased. The brand of that was two brothers. I finished it off with a 1.75 turn down to match the factory style turn down. I am probably going to put some sort of spark arrestor back into the muffler. When I am finished with everything I will have pics and video as always. I do feel special as I am sure I am the first with a Viking and aftermarket exhaust.
 

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I'm not going for a different sound as much, but I would like the exhaust to be not near as hot.....is there anything I can gut out of it to make it run right and yet run a bit cooler
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No, not without doing a full over haul. Just simple removing the 4 bolts and removing the spark arrestor will make it loud and still get as hot. I wasn't after the sound either, like you I was trying to reduce back pressure and heat which I did do.
 

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The Dynojet Power Commander will actually be one of the better methods for cooling things down... right now things are obviously on the lean side. Enriching the mixture may not only aid power, power also lower the combustion temperatures. The caveat is that the catalytic converter may become overloaded... not an issue if it is removed, but ideally, I'd like to see things done to preserve the emissions compliancy.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, so I've took some time off, and today was the first day I have worked on this project. I have pics and video of the new setup. I am happy with the results, however, I did put a removable spark arrestor plate in place. With it, it isn't too loud to ride but it's prob 15% louder than factory. With that in mind I am going to make a removable silencer insert for those days my baby girl is riding with me. The performance of what I have done so far is awesome, I can tell the biggest difference from a dead stop to wot, picks up speeds quicker.
 

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Well, after a very long day of fab and mock up, the exhaust is almost finished. I went ahead and listened to it this evening to see where I was at with sound. It sounds very deep and raspy. Not exactly for someone who hunts but sporty sounding. I ended up gutting the factory muffler and running 1.75 inch pipe straight through, I perforated that pipe with holes I drilled into it. Then I wrapped that pipe with stainless steel wool, and exhaust repacking I purchased. The brand of that was two brothers. I finished it off with a 1.75 turn down to match the factory style turn down. I am probably going to put some sort of spark arrestor back into the muffler. When I am finished with everything I will have pics and video as always. I do feel special as I am sure I am the first with a Viking and aftermarket exhaust.
hey Madviking,
thanks for the tech on the power commander...is it the way to go to insure factory reliability when making exhaust free flow and cool down mods? do you happen to know if it retains the factory warranty when installed?
thanks for all...pete
 

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The Power Commander can richen up the air/fuel mixture, which can aid power, and will create lower exhaust temperatures, which will lessen the rear diff heating issue.

As for warranty, many manufacturers/dealers like to try squirm out of warranty when folks mod their toys. This is illegal, and if there is an issue, they need to prove the mod caused the problem. Being that we are running on the lean side, which is hard on components, richening things up could actually increase the life the engine. The catalytic converter will probably not be happy with a richer mixture, the muffler, which contains the converter, could be damaged, and need replacement... a new muffler w/o the converter would solve this, but the machine would no longer be emissions compliant.

Camo2014 has a good thread going on, which shows the internals of the muffler/converter. Check it out...

http://www.vikingforum.org/forum/engine-drivetrain/1689-emissions-exhaust.html
 
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