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Discussion Starter #1
As many know, I have been building up my Search and Rescue 2015 EPS for the better of 7 months. This last two weeks, I took it out on a shake down workout during archery elk season. It ran really great and took all of the off road trails and open skid trails without a wink for 95 miles hard driving, * * * until mile number 96, then it fell apart 10 miles off main dirt road. I was slowing from 8 mph to 3 mph and all of a sudden I had a loud squealing sound from my rear end or clutch area with the smell of burning rubber ( presumed that to be the drive belt). I babied it back the twenty miles to camp and shut it down to cool off. The next day, while in neutral, I rev it up and the belt starts to smell and smoke again. I had to winch the unit onto the trailer as the drive gear would not move forward or backward with the engine itself. I am home now and will start tearing it down tomorrow to see how much and what damage was done to the unit. I also hope to figure out if the clutch belt burning was the problem, or a result of the problem. I really put a lot of time and effort into building this thing up correctly so am sort of bummed out, but **** happens (as they say). :crying:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I dove into the problem and quickly found that my inner sheave was not turning and my outer one was. Tore into it further and found that the splines on the inner sheave were sheared off, gone, missing, causing all kinds of problems with the belt and plastic cover over the wet clutch. The wet clutch gear and shaft seem to be working just fine. Now I have to find a way to remove all of the burnt rubber material on the main JBS Sheave, buy a few new parts and reassemble and try it out again. The belt got so hot that it started to bubble up and melt. Lucky that a fire did not get started (I do carry a Fire Extinguisher for this purpose). Onward into repairs.
 

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As many know, I have been building up my Search and Rescue 2015 EPS for the better of 7 months. This last two weeks, I took it out on a shake down workout during archery elk season. It ran really great and took all of the off road trails and open skid trails without a wink for 95 miles hard driving, * * * until mile number 96, then it fell apart 10 miles off main dirt road. I was slowing from 8 mph to 3 mph and all of a sudden I had a loud squealing sound from my rear end or clutch area with the smell of burning rubber ( presumed that to be the drive belt). I babied it back the twenty miles to camp and shut it down to cool off. The next day, while in neutral, I rev it up and the belt starts to smell and smoke again. I had to winch the unit onto the trailer as the drive gear would not move forward or backward with the engine itself. I am home now and will start tearing it down tomorrow to see how much and what damage was done to the unit. I also hope to figure out if the clutch belt burning was the problem, or a result of the problem. I really put a lot of time and effort into building this thing up correctly so am sort of bummed out, but **** happens (as they say). :crying:


Was that the first miles you put on your clutch work?
Kurt


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Discussion Starter #6
:|No!, I had put 50 miles on it a few weeks ago. So a total of 148 miles before the splines shearing off. My main thought now is now to resurface both my main Sheave halves and my secondary sheaves. I have a new clutch back plate, belt, rear primary sheave and numerous gaskets on order. JBS Performace had the best price for the sheave so I sent my business to them. The best prices I found with the best selection for the minor additional parts was Babbitt's. I got a belt off of Amazon. Now waiting for all of the Fed-X and UPS packages to arrive. I still have to investigate my rear diff as it got mighty hot too. Anyone have the max angle that the CV joints can endure? I currently have 14 inch clearance on my 27 inch tires. Should I take off my two inch lift kits to bring it down slightly?
 

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:|No!, I had put 50 miles on it a few weeks ago. So a total of 148 miles before the splines shearing off. My main thought now is now to resurface both my main Sheave halves and my secondary sheaves. I have a new clutch back plate, belt, rear primary sheave and numerous gaskets on order. JBS Performace had the best price for the sheave so I sent my business to them. The best prices I found with the best selection for the minor additional parts was Babbitt's. I got a belt off of Amazon. Now waiting for all of the Fed-X and UPS packages to arrive. I still have to investigate my rear diff as it got mighty hot too. Anyone have the max angle that the CV joints can endure? I currently have 14 inch clearance on my 27 inch tires. Should I take off my two inch lift kits to bring it down slightly?






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I do know what happened seeing I had the same thing the first time I put one together. You didn’t have the outside splines lined up and pushed all the way on and instead just had the nut tightened up against it. This will last a while but not long. It’s very easy to do!!! When you put it together the second time knowing this will make total sense. This causes way too much stress on the inside splines. It sucks but no way no how will you grind them off any other way. The wet clutch would slip long before you’d strip them.


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IMO you're fine with the 2" lift. I ended up with Rhino axles on mine after bending both stock ones but ran the fronts well over 6000 miles with a 2" lift and no issues. do you have a heat shield over the rear diff? it makes a difference, but they still get very hot. kurt is correct from all the times I've read about stripped splines it always been from not getting it on all the way. good luck on the rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Would it hurt to use emory paper (medium and the fine) on the Sheave surfaces? kurtw7284, your diagnosis sounds like you hit it on the head. After it fell apart, as I took it apart, that was my thought that I did not align it correctly. Thanks for the input.
 

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Would it hurt to use emory paper (medium and the fine) on the Sheave surfaces?

High pressure water might be a better way to clean the sheaves up, hot if possible. Or scrape it off with a knife held flat? You probably could use emery paper but you wouldn't want to rough the surfaces up at all I would imagine.
 

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That’s why we are here. Help others from our first mistakes. Don’t give up on that Viking they are awesome machines..


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Would it hurt to use emory paper (medium and the fine) on the Sheave surfaces? kurtw7284, your diagnosis sounds like you hit it on the head. After it fell apart, as I took it apart, that was my thought that I did not align it correctly. Thanks for the input.
Emory cloth is fine, I did it to mine after smoking a belt and never had any issues after putting it back together. I went coarse, medium and fine. it doesn't have to be super smooth, the belt will wear it in pretty quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
LIVE AND LEARN, as they say. The extreme heat generated by the 20 mile run back to camp actually melted the belt rubber INTO the surface of all four sheaves (primary and secondary). After days of trying to remove the burnt rubber off of both the primary and secondary sheaves with emery cloth, I got frustrated and put a wire brush on a drill to them. Big mistake !!! The heat generated with the wire brush took off the rubber, but also melted the surface and I ended up with globs of aluminium on the surface making it very rough and by any standards unusable for belt use. So a new secondary and primary sheave were ordered as well as the dust guard that goes behind both clutches as it also melted in the process. Got most of my parts, but have been waiting for over a month for my Hot Rod Sheave kit from PBS. A very expensive mistake on my part for not making sure that my primary was properly assembled the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just to let you all know, I replaced the JBS Sheave and the stationary sheave and after 110 miles, it all happened again. Stationary splines stripped out. This time, I had to drive 15 miles back to camp and at the 10 mile spot, I had smoke bellowing out of the clutch assembly. Apparently the belt had melted to the point that it caught fire. Having a fire extinguisher helped a lot. No damage to the unit other than the primary and secondary clutch assemblies. I just ordered $1400 worth of new OEM parts and will try this all over again. I ordered another JBS sheave kit, but will say that I am disappointed at the NO response to my emails to them asking for thoughts and suggestions. This is the third performance sheave that I have bought from them for the same unit as the others were destroyed, but still no replies to any of my attempts at communicating. I will review and act upon all of the suggestions that you folks have given me in the above post.
 

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Man you are having bad luck. I will say that multiple threads I have read about JBS have been terrible... For their products & their customer service. The Wolverine forum is full of bad experiences with JBS. I wouldn’t recommend them to anyone. Their parts maybe half your problem. Good luck keep is posted.
 

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FYI, also the best belt you can put in these things is the Yamaha oem belt, don’t use anything else.
 

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I'd be going back to all stock parts. Obviously there's a reason why this keeps happening, and using all Yamaha parts will eliminate a lot of unknowns. Check the splines on your output shaft from the clutch too, make sure they aren't worn.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The splines on the output shaft seem to be within .05 inches of each other. Since I got a new one because I suspected a spine tolerance problem, I will go ahead and replace it. The JPS sheave came today, so only waiting for the secondary sheaves (on backorder) to arrive. Everything on the clutch rebuild will be OEM except the moving Sheave on the primary and the spring (purple one) on the Secondary Clutch. Could it be caused by all of the extra weight that I have put on it with my SAR equipment?
 

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How much weight are you talking about? Does it exceed the maximum weight limit for cargo? If it does then yes that could be part of the problem
 
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