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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
I forgot to mention, the first thing I did was measure up the space under the passenger and driver seat. I planned on slipping a battery down in that space.
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Measurements in hand, I went to AutoZone and started measuring motorcycle batteries. Unfortunately, they were all to tall to fit in that space so I had to do something different. I decided to weld up a small frame for the deep cycle battery I got from Sam's. It ended up being quite sturdy.

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Discussion Starter #22
I had a general idea of what I needed to do but this was going to be a lot of equipment. I wanted everything independent from the factory wiring for two reasons
1. If I ever wanted to sell the viking, or put it back to stock, I could easily remove the system
2. If anything ever went wrong with my wiring, it wouldn't effect the factory functionality of the Zombie Killer

So once again I jumped on Amazon and started spending money!
I needed something to put my relays in to keep them dry and this seemed to work nicely. It was a lot of work getting everything wired in and out of this but I think it was worth while. I'll be able to pressure wash the Coronavirus Zombie Killer worry free after a day of slaying!
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This provided a nice place for me to install all of my fuses. And it came with an assortment of nice sitckers to remind me what fuse controlled what.
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This terminal strip wound up being used for my connections between relays and switched. If it went to a relay, from a switch it went through this!
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The relays I used..
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I wanted a professional install so this tool and components did the trick.
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If you recall, I wanted to be able to remove this system from the factory wiring at any time. I utilized these plugs, along with the tool above to make sure everything was plug and play.
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I used these too, though I sometimes wish I hadn't. A fork type connector would have been much easier, but at least I know these wont pull out of the terminal blocks.
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After lots of thinking and planning and calculating I came up with this. I welded in some angle between the passenger and drivers seat and bolted this to it.
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Notice the black channel running left to right. It leads from the front of the coronavirus zombie killer to just underneath the sub panel. I was worried about mud, or rocks or heat getting to mess of wires I was about to install. I didn't want them to ever get caught in the drive shaft, or interfere with the cooling lines that ran right through there. By welding in this c-channel I was able to keep everything elevated and protected from the drive train and cooling system.
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Good job, plenty of bus bars there! While you're at it put an external charging point in for your 2nd battery, so you can get home and connect it to a charger without pulling everything apart. I'm not sure how many amp hours that battery is but it looks to be 80 or 100, the problem you'll face is if it is that big if you run it down you'll have to ride for five hours to get it fully charged back up, which probably won't happen. If you've got an external charge point you can easily just hook it up to a charger when you get home. You could double up the charge point as a power take off too, so that you could plug in phone chargers spot lights etc from the outside of the bike.

How are you going to stop mud etc from building up on top of the plate, dust collecting over time which will then get wet, and/or flood water?

So you've got your six +ve feed wires coming in from the top. Bottom right bus bar is to bring your wiring in from your switches to switch the relays? Bottom left bus bar is your power back out to whatever it is you want to run through the relays? Short heavy black lead top right is your earth for your main bus bar? What are the fuses at the top for?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Good job, plenty of bus bars there! While you're at it put an external charging point in for your 2nd battery, so you can get home and connect it to a charger without pulling everything apart. I'm not sure how many amp hours that battery is but it looks to be 80 or 100, the problem you'll face is if it is that big if you run it down you'll have to ride for five hours to get it fully charged back up, which probably won't happen. If you've got an external charge point you can easily just hook it up to a charger when you get home. You could double up the charge point as a power take off too, so that you could plug in phone chargers spot lights etc from the outside of the bike.
I thought about a charger for the second battery but it's such a monster the likelihood of it depleting is slim. Plus, if I just lift the drivers seat cushion I can access the battery terminals to hook up a charger very easily. I might do something in the future if it's to big of a pain.

How are you going to stop mud etc from building up on top of the plate, dust collecting over time which will then get wet, and/or flood water?
The relays are the only thing I'm worried about and that is water proof. And the fuse has a nice cover on them. Yes, these components can get wet but I live in the dessert. Not much opportunity to get wet beyond the power washer.

So you've got your six +ve feed wires coming in from the top. Bottom right bus bar is to bring your wiring in from your switches to switch the relays? Bottom left bus bar is your power back out to whatever it is you want to run through the relays? Short heavy black lead top right is your earth for your main bus bar? What are the fuses at the top for?
I'll have to post some photos of the thing completed. I have a wiring schematic I can post too. The larger terminal block is not for ground, it is the load side of the relay. I needed something beefier for amp draw. Wasn't sure what the Light bar was going to need until I bought it. The smaller terminal block is where I landed all of my switches from the dash. I ended up building my own negative buss bar. I ordered one but the COVID bug bit the postman and it wasn't going to arrive for far to long. So I went to the store and bought some flat bar and drilled some holes in it.

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Discussion Starter #25
The fuse block has 12 slots available. I won't need to use them all. Position 1 is going to be for some reverse lights. I found a few threads that allowed me to utilize the factory wiring. So I bought a Yamaha Relay and began wiring it all up.

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If you look close at the above picture, you would think this next item would have come with it. It didn't So I had to order this too. This allowed me to install the reverse lighting relay under the hood.
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reverse switch is a switched negative. If you don't know what that means then best leave it to a professional. Or perhaps do your homework first. I had no idea what that meant but 2 (yes two) reverse switches later I had a complete understanding.

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The way the reverse switch works is quite ingenious if you ask me. It took some figuring on my end, and 2 reverse switches that are a complete PITA to replace by the way. For all of you out there, I'll draw a schematic that shows how the factory wiring and reverse switch works.
 

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I don’t see an isolator.
 

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The fuse block has 12 slots available. I won't need to use them all. Position 1 is going to be for some reverse lights. I found a few threads that allowed me to utilize the factory wiring. So I bought a Yamaha Relay and began wiring it all up.

If you look close at the above picture, you would think this next item would have come with it. It didn't So I had to order this too. This allowed me to install the reverse lighting relay under the hood.

reverse switch is a switched negative. If you don't know what that means then best leave it to a professional. Or perhaps do your homework first. I had no idea what that meant but 2 (yes two) reverse switches later I had a complete understanding.

The way the reverse switch works is quite ingenious if you ask me. It took some figuring on my end, and 2 reverse switches that are a complete PITA to replace by the way. For all of you out there, I'll draw a schematic that shows how the factory wiring and reverse switch works.
The switched negative wiring is definitely a trap for new players, it caught a few out years ago on this forum! I bet Yamaha made a fortune out of selling reverse switches. Most motor vehicles have negative switched headlights, it's pretty common.

If you've got LED tail lights you should already have everything in place for reverse lights, relay, reverse lights, wiring etc. Just tap into that for your additional lights? Oh I see you want your additional reverse lights to run of your 2nd battery? Won't you only be using them while the engine's running?
 

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I thought about a charger for the second battery but it's such a monster the likelihood of it depleting is slim.
It doesn't quite work like that, a bigger battery will give you more storage sure, but at the end of the day you are still sucking the same amount of power out, and still putting the same amount of power back in, big battery or small battery. Your big battery will take longer to run flat but you'll never charge it up with the Viking's alternator, hence the need for an external charger.

Fair point on pulling the seat to charge though.
 

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There has to be a way to charge this monster battery, it will not charge itself, I would think if you were to connect to the alternator it would cook it in short order.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I run the Viking during the day and the night, so I won't always have a load on the Aux battery. I have a volt meter on the Aux and Starter battery and both reed north of 14v. Even if I did need to charge it, the terminals are just below the seat so it's easy enough to throw a trickle charger on there too.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I ordered up the EMP rear bumper for the wannabe COVID Killer along with these lights. I think they'll look seamless installed in the EMP rear bumper!

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Discussion Starter #33
There has to be a way to charge this monster battery, it will not charge itself, I would think if you were to connect to the alternator it would cook it in short order.
That's what the battery isolater does, only it only allows the AUX battery to be charged when the Starter battery drops down below around 12.3v. So far it hasn't been an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Update...
I have had my build complete for about 6 months now and I'm really happy with thigs. The battery has never been a problem. The battery isolator works perfectly. had to use the winch a few weeks ago and the AUZ battery drained quite a bit. But the Zombie Killer started right up and she charged right up in no time!


Anyway, I fabricated a plate to mount all my switched to. This should go nice in the Dash. wired them all up to a single plug that makes the install nice and easy!

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
I had some clutch work done on this thing in preparation for some bigger tires. I don't remember what stock tire size is on these things but the 27" tire on the left is what came with the thing when I bought it. I wanted taller and wider tires but I discovered taller tires on the 14" wheels I had was more expensive than to just buy some bigger rims. 28" tires on 12" wheels is uncommon I guess?
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The guy I bought the COVID Killer from threw in a new one-way bearing. I put that on when I had the clutch opened up. I took it for a drive and the dang thing would never disengage. Turns out the one way bearing he gave me was a cheap knockoff and it failed nearly instantly.

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It's kind of hard so see, but the one way bearing has some serious wear on it.

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as a note, NEVER drive the Viking without the cage on it. see illustration below.

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Discussion Starter #36
worried about the shavings, I promptly drained the oil and took a look in the pan. Yikes!

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Those white spots are metal shavings.

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Discussion Starter #37
I ended up cranking open the engine block and flushed everything out with break cleaner, then did 3 back to back oil changes just to make sure I got everything out. In all the above mess, I discovered the clutch cage had a bad bolt hole. the previous owner stripped the bolt hole in the aluminum block.

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I threw in some threaded inserts and everything was good to go.

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I had Jim at JBS hook me up with a new clutch and documented everything inside with the help of a nice sticker!

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Discussion Starter #38
Speaking of JBS...
I had a little bit of an issue but it all worked out fine in the end. It turns out, not all lube is created equal. can you spot the difference? Hint, they're all lubricant.

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Yes, all are lubricant, but all are not the same. I put the Multipurpose grease inside my JBS Clutch and it ended up making confetti of my belt.

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Again, I pulled the clutch out to look at the damage. I ended up discovering the wrong grease caused the weights to wear out. These photos are after 1 ride.
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I called Jim and showed him the pictures and he agreed that the lube Yamaha recommends should be put in different containers. Their site also now specifies to use Ultramatic grease. Jim promptly hooked me up and everything is fine now.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
So now she drives nice, I had to get her electrical done.

first, turn signals!

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I eventually planned on teaching my girls to drive with this, and eventully hand it over to the wife when I get something faster. So I opted for a column mounted turn signal.

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Indicator Lights

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I like the spot I picked in the front bumper. They seem to look good there, great visibility too.

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Next, I had to scare those COVID Zombies so i had to put on some killer lights!

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Need to bee seen in the dessert too so I promptly put on some whips!

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so Here she she is. Tires, wheels, Lights, turn signals, whips. Did I mention the winch?

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Discussion Starter #40
I hated the top I had on it... she just wouldn't do so I ordered this beauty!

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mirrors too. Forgot to post those.

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Ordered up a light bar too. Have to be able to see them COVID Zombies!

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You have to be able to find your weapon of choice so I mounted some interior lights too for good measure!

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Did I mention how easy it makes cleaning this killer after a long day of Zombie hunting? Turn these bad boys on and you can see every nook and cranny you missed. Got to keep the Killer Clean!
 
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