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2018 camo VI
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2018 Viking vi. 26x12x12 tires rear and 11” wide in the front. Soon to be 12s also. I use it to tow and haul quite often, but still trail ride. I have a stock sheave with hv 16 g weights, 1.5mm in shims and green spring. Slugged wet clutch also. Just looking for opinions on this set up. Maybe this is the best I can have for both worlds.
 

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2020 Yamaha Viking EPS
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What are you trying to achieve beyond what you already have?
 

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So you need low down power to haul obviously, what sort of trail riding do you do, flat out or just cruising?
 

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I don't have any experience with the green spring but I did run 16g weights in my Wolvy with purple. I know it's very different machine than your 6-seater with all your gear but I hated the 16g weights - it seemed to rev like crazy and not really provide any additional power or torque. When I upgraded the sheave in my Viking to Hunterworks, I went with 18g and purple but I thought seriously about going 20g to reduce revving and noise. My Viking spins the tires a whole lot more in H than it does in L because it's upshifting faster. I also have two Grizzly 700s. I have one with a JBS sheave/purple spring and Hunterworks 18g weights and the other has 1.5mm of shims, 20g Hunterworks weights, and stock spring. To me, it seems like the 20g weights pull harder without all the RPMs. I'm no expert and your set-up is very different from mine. It just seems to me that the 686 makes plenty of torque for most applications and I feel like the 18g do pretty well in my Viking. Maybe a little lighter spring and heavier weights would be a good combo? The good news is CVT adjustments don't necessarily cost a fortune. Trial and error is the only way I've found what works for me. Just my humble ramblings....
 

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2018 camo VI
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Green spring is pretty close to stock I believe. So maybe try the 18 g weights with the 1.5 of shims? Hunterworks suggests no machines sheave for the Viking vi so I’d like to stick with the stock one.
 

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I wasn't aware that Hunterworks didn't recommend a machined sheave on the 6. As far as springs, I thought the green was supposed to be a little stiffer than purple? If I had an extra set of 18g weights, I'd send them to you to try. I have .5mm of shim in with my Hunterworks (not recommended) and I have some pretty good grunt. I think the shims are your best bang for the buck mod if you want different gearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I wasn't aware that Hunterworks didn't recommend a machined sheave on the 6. As far as springs, I thought the green was supposed to be a little stiffer than purple? If I had an extra set of 18g weights, I'd send them to you to try. I have .5mm of shim in with my Hunterworks (not recommended) and I have some pretty good grunt. I think the shims are your best bang for the buck mod if you want different gearing.
Maybe I should put the stock weights back in and leave the spring, and keep the 1.5mm of shim for the low end. I think stock weights are like 20g
 

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My stock weights weighed in at 21.
Not sure why a machined sheave would be any different for a VI, I do know that Hunter Works no longer offers a machined sheave. You may have to look else where for one like Weller or JBS
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I had a jbs, but went back to stock. I read on here another Viking vi had issues and when he went back to a stock sheave they were resolved. I might try stock weights this weekend with the shims and keep the green spring in also.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Talked to Todd today at hunterworks. He said to keep the 16g weights in and just experiment with the shims. Maybe I’ll keep the 16g weights in and just put a .5mm shim in. I definitely need low end but the slow speed and high rpm’s would be nice to cut down on just a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Curious what a complete stock clutch set up with 1mm shim would be like.
 

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If you’re going to get in there and make some changes try both. Try one setup first and leave the cover off, run up and down a road then switch to the other setup and do the same thing. Then you will know which you like best vs current setup.
 

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If you’re going to get in there and make some changes try both. Try one setup first and leave the cover off, run up and down a road then switch to the other setup and do the same thing. Then you will know which you like best vs current setup.
This is a good suggestion. Just make sure you don't run it with out the bearing support cage or you'll potentially ruin your wet clutch. That clutch shaft needs support with all that belt tension.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I’m going to try and do some testing this weekend. I’m guessing in the end I will end up keeping what I currently have. I need low end more than speed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I had some extra time last weekend after shooting some ducks to try out a couple options on the Viking clutch. I settled with a .5mm shim with the 16g weights. Gives low end and gained some speed back. Probably the best of both world with using it the way I do.
 
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