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Just purchassed new Viking. Any suggestions on breaking it in? Don't plan on doing a lot of riding but scouting some hunting ground. Any info would be appreciated.
 

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I believe the break in details are in the user manual.

Joe
 
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Like said above, 200 miles or 20hrs whatever comes first
 

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suggested to me by dealer; Not just engine oil but also diffs.
The break in oil is lighter weight so mechanical parts can reach operating tolerance.
In other words, get them wear filings/grindings out...
Not my first yami. Same then as now. These guys remind me a little of Honda with
this engine. Been out awhile.
 

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Just asked my dealer the same question....his response "just drive it but don't hold it wide open down the back roads ". As far as oil goes, he installed winter oils for me and once spring hits, I can change to summer oil. Timing should be about perfect between temperature and hours on the machine.
 

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suggested to me by dealer; Not just engine oil but also diffs.
The break in oil is lighter weight so mechanical parts can reach operating tolerance.
In other words, get them wear filings/grindings out...
Not my first yami. Same then as now. These guys remind me a little of Honda with
this engine. Been out awhile.
didn't know break-in oil was blended like that, always wondered what made the break-in oil so special. Some people change it early to get rid of metal shavings better but some say doing this isn't a good practice
 

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A lot of the time it is not a special break in oil but that the is the engine is assembled with break in lube or assembly grease along with minute metal particles from the first run in. I use to roadrace Honda RS125/250GP bikes and 600-750 class sportbikes and most engine builders will tell you do a few heat cycles on the motor and a oil change, then go ride it like you stole it as the compression helps seat the rings. There was a old saying I heard at a shop in Texas "break it in a terd it will be a terd" and we have three in are group and mine does seem a bit faster but who knows...
 

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My dealer told me after 300 miles. To bring it back and they will service it. And check the valves is this necessary? I can change my oil. It's going to cost me 300 dollars. Was anybody else told this? Please let me know thanks
 

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I highly doubt the valves would need to be adjusted after only 300 miles. Seems like they are trying to soak you for some cash.
 

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Agreed! Change the diffs and oil and filter urself ...thats what i did cost about 65 bucks...dont let them bend u over on service fees..yamaha valves never need adjusted anywhere near this early
 

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Valve check and adjustment on these Vikings are super simple....just a feeler gauge and a screw type adjuster.....not the shim and bucket type. Easy to do yourself and should be pretty cheap for the shop to do for you as well.
 

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My dealer told me after 300 miles. To bring it back and they will service it. And check the valves is this necessary? I can change my oil. It's going to cost me 300 dollars. Was anybody else told this? Please let me know thanks
I was told the same thing after 20 hours - first service needs valves adjusted - $450 is what I was told. Just bought my Viking - pick it up Wednesday, but now I kinda wonder if I've chose the wrong dealer?
 

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Why don't you just read the owners manual?

It will tell you right there what needs to be done and when it needs to be done.
 

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I was told 20 hrs or 300 miles. And i was charged $200. More than i wanted to pay but wantd the dealer to do the first one. Seems like you guys are really getting the shaft $450 is ridiculous!!
 

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I'm no gear-head, but I'd rather use that money somewhere else. I can change oil (engine and diff) as well as add coolant. Not that it's a bad choice going to the dealer - time and aggravation is $ to some folks. And trained mechanics can spot things, etc. However, I quite enjoy learning and doing it myself.

Speaking of coolant, I don't know what the dealer used and now it's low. Should I assume it's yamaha brand and does anyone recommend a brand?
 

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I'm no gear-head, but I'd rather use that money somewhere else. I can change oil (engine and diff) as well as add coolant. Not that it's a bad choice going to the dealer - time and aggravation is $ to some folks. And trained mechanics can spot things, etc. However, I quite enjoy learning and doing it myself.

Speaking of coolant, I don't know what the dealer used and now it's low. Should I assume it's yamaha brand and does anyone recommend a brand?
It most likely is the yamaha but after one texas summer I switched my system over to engine ice and it works as advertised
 
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