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Just purchassed new Viking. Any suggestions on breaking it in? Don't plan on doing a lot of riding but scouting some hunting ground. Any info would be appreciated.
This is what I do with all engines, cars, atv's, bikes, utv's, it seems to be what works best.Don't drive at constant rpm vary it up and down. And the more I locked in the 4x4 I found it easier to do.
didn't know break-in oil was blended like that, always wondered what made the break-in oil so special. Some people change it early to get rid of metal shavings better but some say doing this isn't a good practicesuggested to me by dealer; Not just engine oil but also diffs.
The break in oil is lighter weight so mechanical parts can reach operating tolerance.
In other words, get them wear filings/grindings out...
Not my first yami. Same then as now. These guys remind me a little of Honda with
this engine. Been out awhile.
I was told the same thing after 20 hours - first service needs valves adjusted - $450 is what I was told. Just bought my Viking - pick it up Wednesday, but now I kinda wonder if I've chose the wrong dealer?My dealer told me after 300 miles. To bring it back and they will service it. And check the valves is this necessary? I can change my oil. It's going to cost me 300 dollars. Was anybody else told this? Please let me know thanks
It most likely is the yamaha but after one texas summer I switched my system over to engine ice and it works as advertisedI'm no gear-head, but I'd rather use that money somewhere else. I can change oil (engine and diff) as well as add coolant. Not that it's a bad choice going to the dealer - time and aggravation is $ to some folks. And trained mechanics can spot things, etc. However, I quite enjoy learning and doing it myself.
Speaking of coolant, I don't know what the dealer used and now it's low. Should I assume it's yamaha brand and does anyone recommend a brand?